as a cultural heritage product of La Laguna

By Pepe Alas on September 22, 2024

LAMBANÓG AS CULTURAL HERITAGE PRODUCT OF LA LAGUNA PROVINCE^*
Pepe Alas

I. INTRODUCTION

Lambanóg has long been etched in Filipino culture for as long as we can remember that there is almost a tendency to overlook its significance to our heritage. This brief position paper seeks to emphasize its importance, particularly among Lagunenses —the peoples of La Laguna Province—, as an attempt to hopefully enshrine this distilled palm liquor to the echelons of local heritage prominence, if not national nobility.

BACKGROUND Alongside beer and gin, lambanóg is one of the most popular alcoholic drinks in our country^1,2 that is not wanting of heavy drinkers. Aside from being a household name, it is also traditional, most especially among the coconut-growing areas of the country such as those found in the Southern Tagálog region. Traditional in the sense that the method of its production is almost the same as it was since ancient times.³ There is also evidence that tequila, the more well-known distilled beverage from México, has its origins from lambanóg.^4,5 Be that as it may, it cannot be denied that lambanóg is a product endemic only to Filipinas.

While it is produced mostly in the Southern Tagálog region, lambanóg is quite known throughout the country. Also known as vino de coco during the Spanish times,⁶ it is almost always associated with La Laguna province, particularly in the municipalities of Lilio (original spelling of Liliw) and Nagcarlán.⁷ This comes as no surprise considering the fact that La Laguna Province is also a major producer of coconut products and byproducts (this manifests in the province's official seal).⁸

Lambanóg, as an important and integral part of our historico-national consciousness deserves to be recognized as a national heritage product —at the very least— of La Laguna Province. The text that follows will attempt to justify this.

II. OVERVIEW

La Laguna is known for many agreeable things: tourist spots, unique products, eccentric but sumptuous cuisine, etc. Each municipality or city boasts of its uniqueness. For instance, Biñán takes pride of its puto biñán rice cake, Calambâ of our foremost national hero (José Rizal), Pagsanján of its world-famous waterfall, and so on and so forth. Many Lagunense towns also have handsome ancestral homes, many of which have been afforded the title of "heritage houses" (Biñán leads in this practice)⁹. Speaking of heritage houses, no singular Lagunense trademark to date has been given a similar honor such as a "heritage product" or anything to that effect.

While there are many other products in La Laguna that can be given the distinction of such an honor, lambanóg easily stands out from the rest because it cannot be appropriated by a single Lagunense town (unlike in the case of, say, puto biñán). Lambanóg is readily available in coconut-producing municipalities such as Liliw, Luisiana, Magdalena, Majayjay, and Nagcarlán as well as in nearby towns and provinces. It was even listed during the Spanish times as a major product of the province.¹⁰

Key terms:

heritage – features belonging to the culture of a particular society, such as traditions, languages, or buildings, that were created in the past and still have historical importance.
heritage product – any item, inedible or otherwise, that has historical and cultural value.
lambanóg – natural and chemical-free alcoholic liquor obtained from distillation of naturally fermented coconut sap. It is known for its high alcohol content and potency.
vino de coco – Spanish term for lambanóg, literally translated as "coconut wine".

HISTORICAL CONTEXT No one knows exactly when the production of lambanóg came about as it is a pre-Filipino/pre-Hispanic wine. What is known, however, is its provenance — it is actually distilled tubá¹¹ which in turn is created from the sap of various species of palm trees. Lambanóg, therefore, can be considered as a next-level coconut wine.

There is an oral tradition that claims the lambanóg originated from the town of Nagcarlán. This could be true since its inhabitants were recorded to have been dedicated to the processing of vino de coco (lambanóg).¹²

The Spaniards referred to lambanóg as vino de coco which means coconut wine. But it has a very interesting etymology. In an 18^th-century dictionary, lambanóg was defined as an honda or a slingshot (synonymous to tirador)¹³. As many people know, a slingshot is a forked stick to which an elastic strap (or a pair of elastic bands connected by a small sling) is fastened to the two prongs, typically used for shooting small stones. It is implied that the aftereffects of drinking lambanóg is as strong as the projectile force of a slingshot. In fact, there is already an alcoholic beverage with the same name.¹⁴

Historically, La Laguna has been observed even by foreigners to be rich in coconuts.¹⁵ It is not difficult then to surmise that lambanóg had sprung naturally from the province, hence becoming a major product of some of its municipalities such as Liliw, Luisiana, Magdalena, Majayjay, and Nagcarlán.

Before the Spaniards arrived, lambanóg containers were made from dried up cow or carabao bladder. Later on, large wide-mouthed earthenware or stoneware jars called tapayán were used; a mixture of dried-up carabao dung and mud as sealant. The handle of the lambanog from the tapayan is made of bamboo (much like a water dipper or tabò).

During the Spanish times, glass bottles known as damajuana (also called a demijohn or a lady jeanne) replaced the tapayán. Damajuanas are bulbous narrow-necked bottles that can hold between three to ten gallons of lambanóg. During shipment, these bottles are usually encased by a woven material, usually rattan (ouáy or uwáy), to protect them from breaking.¹⁶

Measuring the alcohol content or strength of lambanóg is through bamboo-based cooking. Good quality lambanog can also be recognized when it emits a clean, blue flame when lit up in fire.^17,18

III. REASONS WHY LAMBANÓG SHOULD BE CONSIDERED AS A HERITAGE PRODUCT OF LA LAGUNA

It has been produced in the province even before the Spanish times.
It is distinctively a trademark of the province. The Lagunense municipalities of Liliw, Luisiana, Magdalena, Majayjay, and Nagcarlán are always associated with it.
Production makes use of traditional methods (palm preparation, use of bamboo bridges to cross from one tree to another, preparation of spadix, etc.)¹⁹ with little to no use of modern technology, thus emphasizing its uniqueness in contemporary wine fermentation.
Production of lambanóg is located throughout La Laguna's scenic coconut-laden areas, making them a strong potential for agritourism.
Potential tax incentives are in the offing for lambanóg entrepreneurs and laborers who, for years, have either been marginalized or neglected.
It will be catapulted to the list of local products that have export potential.
It will serve as added boost to local pride and patriotism.

IV. CONCLUSION

To sum it all up, lambanóg deserves to be recognized as a national heritage product of La Laguna as it has clear historical ties with the said province. It has been produced in the province and in nearby areas since time immemorial with little to no change in its method of production and marketing. It is also easy to surmise that it has profound socio-economic and cultural influence among its stakeholders as many households rely on it as their source of livelihood.

^{A bottle (damajuana) of lambanóg produced by Costales Nature Farms (📷 mil_oo_dee).}

REFERENCES:

Sánchez, Prisiclla. Philippine Fermented Foods: Principles and Technology. Quezon City: The University of the Philippines Press, 2008, p. 152.
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Medina, S.M.; Matienzo, E.L.A.; Medina, C.M.; Manalo, D.D.; and Aguilar, E.A. 1997Documentation and Assessment of Successful Coconut Production, Processing, and Marketing Enterprises in Luzón. U.P. Los Baños, College, Laguna. PCARRD and FSSRI, pp. 29, 52.
Sapiens. How Filipino Sailors —and Coconuts— Helped Create México's National Drink. Gideon Lasco. 25 January 2022. Available at: https://www.sapiens.org/culture/tequila-origins-tuba/ [Accessed: 1 September 2024].
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Machuca Chávez, Paulina. Historia Mínima de Filipinas. México City: El Colegio de México, 2019.
Feleo, Anita and Sheniak, David. Cabinet of Wonders and Other Laguna Stories. Manila: Anvil, 2001, pp. 60-61, 190-191.
Republic of the Philippines. Symbols of the State, Manila: Bureau of Local Government; Department of Local Government and Community Development, 1975, p. 194.
Galing Pook Awards. Balik-Biñán Project: Tourism Development through Heritage Conservation. 2022. Available at: https://www.galingpook.org/what-we-do/awards/awardees/balik-bi%C3%B1an-project-tourism-development-through-heritage-conservation/ [Accessed: 1 September 2024]
Díaz Arenas, Rafael. Memorias Históricas y Estadísticas de Filipinas y Particularmente de la Grande Isla de Luzón (15^th issue). Manila: Imprenta del Diario de Manila, 1850, p. 9.
De la Torre, Visitación R. Cultural Icons of the Philippines. Makati: Tower Book House, 2002, p. 51.
De Huerta, Félix. Estado Geográfico, Topográfico, Estadístico, Histórico-Religioso de la Santa y Apostólica Provincia de S. Gregorio Magno. Binondo: Imprenta de M. Sánchez, 1865, p. 138.
De Noceda, Juan and de Sanlúcar, Pedro. Vocabulario de la Lengua Tagala. Manila: Imprenta de la Compañía de Jesús, 1754, p. 284.
Legends Distillery. Slingshot Single Barrel - 45% Alcohol/Volume. Available at: https://www.legendsdistilleryisrael.com/product-page/slingshot-single-barrel-45-alcohol-volume [Accessed: 3 September 2024].
Mallat, Jean. Les Philippines: Histoire, Géographie, Moeurs, Agriculture, Industrie et Commerce des Colonies Espagnoles dans l'Océanie. Paris: Arthus Bertrand, 1846, pp. 57-58.
Information supplied by Mr. Napoleón Joey Vistal, a public servant and native of Nagcarlán, via Messenger chat on 7 September 2024.
Ibid.
Feleo and Sheniak, op. cit., p. 200.
Medina, S.M. et al., op. cit., p. 35.